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forum Forum index forumNew To Reenacting? forumFederal Canteen Sling

Author : Topic: Federal Canteen Sling  Bottom
 Private Glover
 Posts : 290
 "They couldn't hit an
elephant at this distance."
-last words of John Sedgwick, May
9th, 1864
  Posted 08/05/2009 09:48:10 AM
Send a private message to Private Glover
Got a new sling for my canteen from S&S the other day and I've got a couple questions about how to sew it on.

1. The height should be such that it rest on (not above) the pelvic bone, above the hip (not on it), right?

2. Should the maker's mark be on the inside or the outside, down at the canteen or up near the shoulder?

3. I'm assuming that the ends should be folded over so as not to fray--is that correct? And is there a particular stitch that I need to employ?

Thanks for the help.

Mel Glover
Fairborn, Ohio
Invalid Strawfoot
6th OVI
 Michael Schaffner
 Posts : 338
 Only the insane take themselves
quite seriously -- Max Beerbohm
  Posted 08/05/2009 02:26:31 PM
Send a private message to Michael Schaffner
1.  I'd suggest you put on your sack coat and haversack and then put on the canteen with the strap held in place by a binder clip or clothes pin.  Once you find out where it seems to ride most comfortably, mark the spot.

2.  If I had to guess, I'd say it didn't matter.

3.  No special stitch.  I would however recommend that you not cut it down, just to avoid possibly cutting it too short.  I turned the ends over on mine to avoid fraying.  I also, after joining the strap on my last one, found out that I'd still left it too long, so I doubled it over elsewhere and sewed it again.  This second tuck is right at the bottom of the canteen and has helped it not wear through so much at that spot.

Hope this helps.

Michael A. Schaffner
Co. 'BSS', 16th Michigan
Scrivener's Mess
 Bill
 moderator
 Posts : 1809
 The original fence sitter
 Bill
  Posted 08/05/2009 03:15:55 PM
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Let me see if I can explain how to sew up your strap with no photos:

1. Take the two ends of the strap and put them next to each other, insuring the strap is not twisted.

2. Fold the two straps over with about a half inch in the fold.

3. Fold the strap over a second time, capturing the raw ends against the strap.

4. Sew the folds togeteher, using a running stitch across the strap and a whip stitch on the edges of the folded area.

Did that make any sense at all?  

For what it's worth, I make my canteen straps long enough that the canteen will rest on top of my haversack. The top of the haversack is about at the height of my waist belt. If you look at my Avatar, you can see what I mean. For sure, other's mileage will vary.  

--Last edited by Bill on 2009-05-08 15:20:24 --

Bill Rodman
King of Prussia, PA
wrodman1@aol.com
 GrumpyDave
 moderator
 Posts : 2431
 Rain no mo
 GrumpyDave
  Posted 08/05/2009 03:40:50 PM
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and, for a third opinion...

1. The height should be such that it rest on (not above) the pelvic bone, above the hip (not on it), right? Sew it so it's at a legnth that's comfortable for you.

2. Should the maker's mark be on the inside or the outside, down at the canteen or up near the shoulder? It doesn't matter.

3. I'm assuming that the ends should be folded over so as not to fray--is that correct? Very good idea. And is there a particular stitch that I need to employ? Not ever CW soldier was a taylor, do what they did, their best, so it worked.




GrumpyDave Towsen
http://www.aceboard.net/kator/smiley148.abgif
 Private Glover
 Posts : 290
 "They couldn't hit an
elephant at this distance."
-last words of John Sedgwick, May
9th, 1864
  Posted 09/05/2009 09:16:59 AM
Send a private message to Private Glover
All of that information makes perfect sense. Thank you comrades!

Mel Glover
Fairborn, Ohio
Invalid Strawfoot
6th OVI

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