I'm dividing this out from the other Agricultural thread as this really relates to kitchen crops rather than large scale farming.

Garden size varied according to the size of the household, white and black, with a typical rural white family probably tending anywhere from a quarter of an acre up to one or two acres.  However, many vegetables, such as corn, cowpeas, pumpkins, and turnips, could also be grown as field crops with relatively little extra care.

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation.

The following suggestions appear in Affleck's Southern Rural Almanac and Plantation and Garden Calendar, 1860 edition, published most years between 1845 and 1861, with a circulation of between 20,000 and 56,000.  Thomas Affleck (1812-1868) operated one of the first commercial nurseries in the South in Adams County, Mississippi, near Natchez, until 1858 when he moved to Texas and established Glenblythe Plantation and Central Nurseries near Brenham, Washington County, Texas.  His advice was also often printed in statewide newspapers, making it more available to literate Texans.
The Kitchen Garden in the South.

Although short hints for the management of the garden are given under this head, each month; yet, our lady correspondents generally desire more full directions for the sowing, planting, and after-treatment of each vegetable, which are here given.
In discussing this subject, the great difficulty is to keep within the moderate limits required in a publication of this kind, and yet convey the requisite information.
As a general thing, in the South, we consume too much of rich and highly nutritious food, and too little of vegetables and fruits.  The blood thus formed is too thick, especially as perspiration is continuous and copious; and dullness and disease are thus induced.  Vegetables and soups ought to constitute a large portion of our diet in hot weather; together with the free use of fruits, before noon.
The Vegetable Garden is the most important appendage to a homestead.  Select a tolerably level spot of land, naturally rich.  The exposure is of less moment than is generally represented; though we should prefer a gentle slope to the East, with protection, at some little distance, from the cold north blasts.  Water, from a running stream, pond, or even a well, is indispensable.  The location should be one convenient to the dwelling that the ladies of the family may have easy access; the garden being usually under their exclusive care.  It should also be accessible from the stable or farm-yard, that supplies of manure may readily be had.
The shape should be an oblong square, that the plow and cultivator may be used as much as possible.  One broad main walk up the center, at least eight feet wide, with a gate at each end, wide enough for a card or wagon to pass; with borders five feet wide next the fence, all around; and a walk inside of these borders, also five feet wide.  Dwarfed fruit trees may be planted alongside of all of the walks running lengthways of the garden, but not across the ends,--that the plow and cultivator may have free access to the end walks, for turning.  The less complication in the arrangement and laying off of the vegetable garden the better.  Shade and ornamental trees, flowers, &c., are out of place there.
The entire garden should be trenched if possible; or at least trench-plowed—that is, in breaking up, after a heavy dressing of manure has been applied, use strong teams and good deep-tilling plows, running the plow to the beam twice in every furrow; thus stirring up the soil to at least a foot in depth.  It will be unquestionably pay to trench with the spade, and enrich the garden to the depth of three feet; under-draining when practicable.  Neither labor in tending nor seed must be spared.  Sow again and again, if necessary.  The cost of seed is trifling to the advantages of a full supply of vegetables in their season.


Commence the work of the spring garden early—say even in December, when Irish potatoes should be planted and peas sown.  And be prepared for the rains of August, when the fall garden is to be got under way.
We have treated of each of the more common garden vegetables in succession, adding short lists of the best varieties of some.

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation.

Here is a similar excerpt from another Southern gardening guide, this one from Georgia:

White, William N.  Gardening for the South; or the Kitchen and Fruit Garden:  With the Best Methods for their Cultivation, together with Hints Upon Landscape and Flower Gardening.  New York:  C. M. Saxton and Co; Athens, GA:  Wm. N. White, 1856.
With us, gardening in all its departments is generally deemed the peculiar province of the ladies, and we cannot regret that it has fallen into their hands.  Had Mr. Downing lived at the South, he would never have asked "What is the reason American ladies do not love to work in their gardens?"  Hence the usual direction that the gardens should be formed near the house, becomes with us doubly important.  The situation of the flower-garden and lawn should be immediately adjacent to the dwelling in order to yield the highest degree of pleasure.  The most satisfactory arrangement is to form the lawn directly in the front, and the flower-garden on the side, sufficiently near to be overlooked by the drawing room windows, while the sides of the dwelling, in part, and its entire rear, including the kitchen and servants' yard, are sheltered and concealed by trees.  A dwelling thus embayed in well-grown trees is always regarded with pleasure.  As neither the fruit or kitchen garden, especially the latter, can be considered ornamental, they should not, though near the dwelling, be placed obtrusively in view.  Near they should be, as if either is distant, time is lost in watching its progress; it is in danger of being neglected; and even if this is not the case, its choicest products may gratify the palate of any one besides its owner.  A good arrangement is to place them in immediate connection with the pleasure-ground, proceeding from the shrubbery to the fruit department, and thence to the kitchen-garden.  The latter should be near the stables, in order that it may be copiously replenished with manure without too great expenditure of labor.
Much, however, depends upon the soil.  The best at command, in the vicinity of the dwelling, should be chosen.  Proximity to water is also highly important, especially if it can be readily employed for irrigation.  Low situations are more endangered by late and early frosts, but their abundant moisture renders them desirable for summer crops.  A diversity of soils and exposures in the same enclosure is desirable. . . .
A garden should be proportioned to the size of the family, and their partiality for its different products.  A small garden with a suitable rotation of crops, and well manured and cultivated, will yield more pleasure and profit than an ordinary one of three times its size.  An active industrious hand can take care of an acre, well provided with hot-beds, cold frames, &c., keeping it in perfect neatness and condition; or if the plough and cultivator be brought into requisition, as they should be in large gardens, four times that amount can be under his care. . . .
If but little room can be allowed near the house, cabbages, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and the common crops can be grown in the field, if well enriched and cultivated solely with the plough. . . .
The objects of fencing are to procure shelter for delicate plants from cold winds, also shade for those that require it, and, above all, to keep out of the garden intruders of all kinds, that the owner may enjoy its fruits without molestation.  A high close board fence, or a stone or brick wall, answers a tolerable purpose; but the only thing to be relied on is a living hedge.  The Osage Orange, Pyracanth, Cherokee, and single White Macartney roses are all good for this purpose.  Osage Orange plants may be raised from seed, or bought at the nurseries for five or six dollars per thousand.  The Pyracanth, or evergreen thorn, we have Mr. Affleck's authority for stating, will make a hedge as effectual as the Osage Orange, and as it is an evergreen, is much the most desirable.

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Finally, an excerpt from a New Orleans gardening catalog, including a section on hot beds and cold frames, published just as the Civil War started:

"The Vegetable Garden" in Maupay's Southern Gardener's Directory, New Orleans, 1861.
A vegetable garden should be square or oblong, and if possible, sheltered from cold winds.  Its size must depend upon the resources of its proprietor.  If large enough to allow the use of a plough, a broad path or alley should be left at each end, so that in turning the instrument, no danger can accrue to the beds or plants.  Its soil should be a rich, mellow, sandy loam, the deeper the better, neither too stiff nor too light, sufficiently pliable to permit the passage of moisture, sufficiently heavy to retain a proper proportion of it, and when worked should always be dug to the full depth of the spade, and afterwards well harrowed or raked.  Its beds should be laid out at right angles.  A light sandy soil is always better worked when moist, but not too moist; a heavy clayey soil when partially dry, otherwise the lumps will become compact, and plague the proprietor during the remainder of the season.
A garden should always lie open to the sun.  All vegetables require light and a free circulation of air.  No weed should be suffered to show its face or cast its seed; neither should any decayed vegetable matter be allowed to rest on its walks.  A garden can never be kept too clean or neat, never too much worked when success is the object of endeavor.
The best manures are WOOD ASHES and PLASTER OF PARIS for top dressing growing vegetables in hot weather, and Lime for the destruction of vegetable matter.  Guano is a powerful but not persistent fertilizer; it must be used cautiously, and never allowed to touch young or tender plants.  It can be used in its dry state, or by mixing one pint to two gallons of water, and then apply to growing plants; once or twice watering in the season will prove sufficient to mature most vegetables excepting cabbage, which will safely bear more frequent applications, and is most profitable when employed in most seasons.
Well rotted hog and horse manures are best adapted to a cold heavy clayey soil, while that from cows answers better for that which is light and warm in its nature.  In addition, soot, snuff, tobacco dust, with wood ashes, lime, and road dust, assist materially in the destruction of insects; whenever the ravages of the latter are perceived, either, or a mixture of the whole of them, should be scattered freely over the hills and beds; these should always be kept on hand.
Great care should now be taken in the selection of suitable seed, which should only be obtained from an experienced grower.  Some may be chosen for early use; others for their persistency; but only the choice, more prolific, and delicately-flavoured varieties should be selected.  Our catalogue contains no inferior kind, and our time and judgment is always at the command of a customer or correspondent.
The next step is to sow or plant your seeds.  In doing so, be careful to observe the proper seasons, and to place them so deep as to command the proper degree of dampness.  Light small seeds should always be placed near the surface; others deeper in proportion to their size.  When sown too early in the season, or too deep, seeds are liable to rot in the ground; when too shallow, at a later period, to dry up for want of moisture, or to be killed by excessive heat, and warm, dry winds, after germination.  Some seeds, as asparagus, or beets, may be soaked in warm water from twenty-four to forty-eight hours before sowing, which hastens their vegetation.
The transplanting of plants should always be done about sundown, or before or after a rain.  Water them slightly and shade them until they have taken root.  Water them only early in the morning, or at evening.  Thin them out when too close together.  This operation rarely comes too soon.  Hoe and weed them when the weeds are small, which can never be done too frequently.  After a frost, in case such an accident should occur, water your young plants copiously before sunrise, which may save you much time and great trouble.



Hot Beds and Frames

In the large collection of vegetable seeds offered to the public in our catalogue, there are, necessarily, many tender kinds, that require a long time to arrive at maturity, while there are many others whose seasons may be considerably advanced by means of art.  Hot-beds and frames are employed for this purpose.  Some care is required in the construction of both.
In forming your hot-bed, select a warm, sheltered situation, exposed to the direct rays of the sun, fronting the south, and protected by a wall, or building, from the cold winds of the north.  Make a wooden box or frame—the size adapted to the extent of your forcing—and let it run in an easterly and westerly direction.  Construct it so that it shall descend southwardly, at an angle of fifteen to eighteen degrees.  Cover this frame with glazed sashes, fitted with the extremest care.  Beneath it, and within it, place a sufficient quantity of unfermented horse-manure, mixed with one-third of short straw or leaves.  These must be well associated.  The depth of manure should be adapted to the season, and should range from fifteen to thirty inches.  When the under-ground of the bed is thus made, place within the frame a layer, some three or four inches in depth, of old, well-rotted manure.  Then cover the frame either with boards or the sashes.  If the latter, they must be sheltered with mats, until fermentation takes place, and heat arises from the bed.  Then remove the boards, and place a layer of rich garden mould, not less than eight inches in depth, on the surface.  Replace your sashes.  As soon as the earth becomes warm, rake it thoroughly and mark your drills.  Then sow your seeds, covering them with finely sifted mould to the depth of half an inch.  Press the surface equally over the whole bed. Now put on your sashes permanently, and in cold weather and at night, cover them with mats and boards.  If the season be very cold, earth the bed up all around, outside, which will serve to maintain the heat.  On fine days, or when the bed becomes too hot, raise the sashes slightly, so as to admit a current of air.  This had better be done when the sun is on the bed.  When not done sufficiently, the young plants are liable to "scald," or "damp off."  When the plants begin to show themselves, give water freely.  As soon as they arrive, at a proper size, and the weather be warm and favourable, they should be transplanted where they are to remain.  In this latitude, hot-beds may be made at any time between the middle of November and the last of January.  Afterward they are unnecessary.
Frames are similar in every respect to hot-beds, with the exception of the unfermented manure, and must be treated in a similar way.

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Vegetable varieties

SESE]—Seeds currently available from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Artichokes—
Large Globe;
Ground or Jerusalem—the latter more commonly planted as a field crop for hogs, is also grown as a garden vegetable.  
Green Globe
Early Purple
Asparagus—
Grayson's Giant,
Large Giant
Green Giant
Beans
Bush or Snap Beans, also known as Kidney Dwarfs, or Snap Shorts
Early Mohawk;
Early Valentine* or Early Snap; (SESE)
Early China;
Early Yellow Six Weeks;
Red Bush Cranberry
Refuge, or Thousand to One
Large White Kidney, or Royal Dwarf
Early China Red Eye
Red Speckled French
Early Speckled Kidney
Beans
Pole or Runners
Large Lima or Butter or White Flat Lima
Carolina Lima or Seewee
Scarlet Running* (SESE)
London Horticultural
White Dutch
White Cranberry Runners
Horticultural Cranberry
Small White Runners
Beans
English or Broad Bean; also known as English Dwarfs
Broad Windsor
Early Long Pod
Early Mazagan
Beets
Extra Early Turnip
Early Blood Turnip
Long Blood
Mangel Wurtzel
White Sugar
Yellow Beet
French Sugar Beet
Swiss Chard
Borecole or Kale
Dwarf German Greens or Kale
Scotch Kale
Siberian
Green Curled Scotch
Purple Curled
Broccoli
Purple Cape
Early White
Sulphur
Granges or Portsmouth
Mammoth
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Early York
Ox Hear
Early Sugar Loaf
Red Dutch, (for pickling)
Early Battersea
Large Late Drumhead
Large Creole Drumhead
Large Drumhead Savoy
Flat Dutch; Bergen*[SESE]
Green Glazed
Turnip-Rooted, above ground or Kohl Rabi
Turnip-Rooted, below ground
Large Drumhead
Extra Large York
Late Battersea
Green Curled Savoy
Red Dutch
Early Dwarf
Early Philadelphia
Cardoon
Large Solid Stalked or Solid
Carrot
Early Horn
Altringham
Long Orange (SESE)
Large White
Cauliflower
Large Early Asiatic
Large Late Asiatic
Celery
White Solid
Red Solid
New Silver Giant
Celeriac, or Turnip-Rooted.
Chervil
Colewart, or Collards
Corn
Sweet or Sugar
Early Tuscarora
Early Canada
Early Golden Flint
Early Sugar
White Flint
Corn Salad, or Venticost
Cress—Peppergrass [SESE]
Curled
Broad Leaved
Cress-Water
Cucumber
Early Frame or Cluster
Long Green
Gherkin
White Spined
Long Frame
Egg Plant
Large Purple
Early Purple
Endive
Green Curled
White Curled
Broad-Leaved
Garlic
Kale
Green Curled
Sea Kale
Leek
Large Flag or Scotch
Large London
Lettuce
Large Early White Cabbage
Large Green Cabbage
Ice Drumhead
Brown Dutch
Curled Indian
Imperial Brown Cos
Early Cabbage
Ice Head
Ice Coss
Green Coss
Melon
Musk
Extra Fine Nutmeg
Silman's Fine Netted
Pine Apple
Green Citron
Large Yellow Cantaloupe
Melon
Water
Black Spanish
Long Island
Ice Cream
Carolina
Goodwin's Imperial
Mustard
White English
Broad-Leaved
Brown or Black
Nasturtium, or Indian Cress
Okra
Large Green
Green Long-Pod
Onion
Large Red or Large Red Weathersfield
Large White or Silver-Skinned
Large Yellow or Large Yellow Strasburgh
Onion Sets
Top or Tree [SESE]
Parsley
Extra Curled, or Double Curled
Plain, or Single [SESE]
Parsnip
Large Sugar
Large Guernsey or Cupped
Large Sugar
Pea
Extra Early Prince Albert
Landreth's Extra Early
Early Frame or Washington
Early Charlton
Bishop's Dwarf Prolific
Bishop's New Long Podded
Dwarf Blue Imperial
Royal Dwarf Marrow
Large Dwarf Marrow
Black-Eyed Marrow
Tall Marrow, extra prolific
Tall Sugar
Dwarf Sugar
Marrowfat
Early May;
Pepper
Large Squash
Long Cayenne or Jamaica [SESE]
Large Sweet Bell-Shaped
Long Bell
Bull Nose [SESE]
Sweet Spanish
Potato
Irish
Japan Potato
Pumpkin
Large Cheese
Mammoth;
Cushaw
Large Family*
Radish
Early Frame
Long Scarlet Short-Top
Red Turnip-Rooted
Long Salmon
White Turnip-Rooted
Yellow Turnip-Rooted
Black Spanish Turnip-Rooted [SESE]
White Spanish Turnip-Rooted
New Olive-Shape
Red Half Long
Long White
Rhubarb or Pie Plant
Roquette
Salsify or Vegetable Oyster
Vegetable Oyster
Black Salsify, or Scorzonera
Shallot
Red
White
Sorrel--Broad-Leaved Garden
[g]Spinage [Spinach][/g]
Broad-Leaved
Prickly
Large Leaved Flanders
Round Seed Savoy
[g]Squash[/g]
Early Bush
Green Striped
Early Bush
White Scallop
Egg or Apple
Winter Crook-Neck [SESE]
Boston Marrow
Lima or Cocoanut
Acorn or California
Vegetable Marrow
Long Green
Long White
Swiss Chard
[g]Tomato, or Love Apple[/g]
Large Red Smooth [SESE]
Large Yellow Smooth
Red Cherry
Yellow Cherry
Pear-Shaped
Cluster Small Red
Large Scarlet
[g]Turnip[/g]
Early Dutch
Imported
Strap-leaved
Red-Topped
Large Flat Dutch
Yellow Stone
White Stone
Yellow Aberdeen
Large Globe
Dale's Hybrid
Improved Swedish or Ruta-Baga*, White* and Yellow*
Yellow
Large Norfolk
Early Spring

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation  

--Last edited by annette bethke on 2009-03-02 10:41:18 --

Vegetables suggested by the Texas Almanac, 1857, looking through their monthly horticultural calendar:
Asparagus Nutmeg Melon
Butter Beans Water Melons
Carolina Beans Butter Onion
Early Dun Beans Silver Skin Onion
Early Six Week Beans Parsley
Lima Beans Parsnips
Blood Turnip Beet Black-Eyed Peas
Sugar Beet Early  Frame or Washington Peas
Cape or Purple Broccoli English Dwarf Marrowfat Peas
Battersea Cabbage English Peas
Drum-Head Cabbage White or Gray Crowder Peas
Early York Cabbage Red Peppers
Large York Cabbage Irish Potatoes
Cantaloupes Sweet Potatoes
Early Horn Carrot Black Spanish Radish
Long Orange or Alfringham Carrot Long Scarlet Radish or Salmon Radish
Long Scarlet Carrot Red Turnip Radish
Dutch Cauliflower Scarlet Turnip Radish
Celery Rutabagas
Corn Salsify
Cucumbers Round-Leaved Spinage
Egg Plants Bush Squash
Endive Tomatoes
Eschallotes Early White Dutch Turnips
Curled Kale Scarlet Turnips
Kohlrabi Red or Yellow Top Dutch Turnips
Cabbage-Head Lettuce Stone Turnips
Musk Melons White Flat Turnips

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Thomas Stuart McFarland, a farmer near Belgrade, Newton County, in southeast Texas, reported that he had the following vegetables and herbs in his garden as of April 18, 1839:
2 varieties of peas 2 varieties of beans butter beans
long peas cucumbers squash
2 varieties of radishes carrots beets
parsnips cabbage eschallottes
2 varieties of mustard 2 kinds of lettuce okra
corn kale tomatoes
4 varieties of peppers celery onions
melons rue balm
egg plant mint saffron
horehound
Another list dated April 16, 1840, added the following:
mullen sage sweet fennel
garlic parsley potatoes, Irish
spearmint peppermint pennyroyal
bunch beans turnips cresses
palma christi [castor bean] muskmelon thyme
coriander lady pea hops
wormwood
--Abt, Jeffry and Leabeth.  "Documents:  The Gardening Sentiments of an Early Texas Pioneer."

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Columbus [GA] Enquirer, January 1, 1850, p. 1, c. 1
Cut this out, and keep it for reference.
Fresh Garden Seeds, for 1850.
Early long pod Eng. Bean; Early curl'd Siles. Lettuce
" six weeks' Snap do "        white cabbage    "
" China          "      " Brown Dutch              "
" Valentine     "      " Imperial cabbage         "
" Mohawk       "      " Ice coss                       "
" Dutch Case Knife Pole Green citron mellon,
"   Horticult'l Cranberry Pole Bean Pine Apple         do
Indian Chief Pole Bean, Nutmeg              do
Large Lima     "       " White Mustard,
Early Blood Turnip Beet, Brown       do,
Long Blood Red        " Nasturtium,
Brussels Sprouts, Danvers yellow onion,
Early York Cabbage, White Portugal    do,
French Oxheart  " White okra,
Large York          " Plain Parsley,
Early Sugar Loaf  " Long smooth Parsnip,
" Drumhead  " Early Prince Albert Peas,
Late          "          " Extra early May        do,
Premium Flat Dutch Cabg. Early warwick           do,
Large Bergen               do " Double Blossom  do
Drumhead Savoy         do " Frame or June     do
Red Dutch                 do Dwarf Blue Prussian      do
Early London Cauliflower, Flaiks Dwarf Victory do
"        Horn Carrot, Large white Marrowfat    do
Long Osage    do "       Bull nose Pepper,
Silver Giant Celery, Early scarlet turnip radish,
Early Russian Cucumber, Long     do     short top   do
" Cluster         do, Round Spinage
" Frame           do, Salsify or vegetable oyster
London long green   do Early yellow bush Squash,
Purple Egg Plant, "       crook neck    do      do
Early white Corn, Large red Tomato,
"        Sugar    do, Early red top Flat Turnip,
Large     do      do "       Plat Dutch        do
And Yellow Onion Sets. Curled Scotch Kale,
Just received by Robert Carter, Sign of the Red Mortar, Columbus, Dec. 11

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

These are the seeds currently available from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange [http://www.southernexposure.com], which they have dated to before 1870:

Asparagus Bean—Green Pod Red Seed [Pre-1860]
Purple Hyacinth Bean—[Pre-1802]
Scarlet Runner Bean—[Pre-1750]
Black Valentine, Stringless Bush Bean—[Known prior to 1850]
Taylor's Dwarf Horticultural (Shelly, Wren's Egg) Bush Bean—[Dates to early 1800s]
Sulphur (Golden Cranberry, China Yellow) Bean—[Introduced about 1839]
Genuine Cornfield (Scotia, Striped Creaseback) Pole Bean—[Possibly pre-Columbian,
cultivated by Iroquois]
Kentucky Wonder (Old Homestead) Pole Bean—[Introduced before 1864, then known as
Texas Pole]
Potomac Pole Bean—[Dates from Virginia side of Potomac before 1860]
Ruth Bible Pole Bean—[Kentucky since 1832]
Blue Coco Pole Bean—[Pre-1775 French heirloom]
Worcester Indian Red Pole Lima Bean—[Reported Native American, pre-1868]
Chioggia (Dolce di Chioggia) Early Season Beet—[Pre-1840 heirloom]
Long Orange Improved Carrot—[Introduced in 1620 by Dutch breeders and brought to
North America by early settlers]
Large Smooth Prague Celeriac—[Pre-1870]
Bloody Butcher Dent Corn—[Introduced about 1845]
Blue Clarage (Ohio Blue Clarage) Dent Corn—developed west of Appalachian Mountains
in Ohio/WV area between 1830 and 1850]
Reid's Yellow Dent Corn—[1840's]
Black Mexican (Mexican Sweet, Black Iroquois)—[1864]
Stowell's Evergreen Sweet Corn—[1856]
Listada de Gandia Bicolor Eggplant—[France about 1850]
Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage--[about 1840]
Early Flat Dutch Cabbage--[pre-1875, possibly pre-1855]
Premium Late Flat Dutch Cabbage—[1840]
Dark Green Italian (Plain Leaf) Parsley—[by 1807]
New Zealand Summer Squash—[1772]
Early Purple Vienna Kohlrabi—[prior to 1860]
Black-Seeded Simpson Lettuce—[about 1850]
Oakleaf Lettuce—[about 1771]
Schweitzer's Mescher Bibb Lettuce—[1700s]
Tom Thumb Lettuce—[pre-1850]
Tennis Ball Lettuce—[pre-1804]
Cow Horn Okra—[pre-1865]
Yellow Potato Onion (Yellow Multiplier, Hill Onion, Mother Onion, Pregnant Onion)—
[prior to 1790]
Hollow Crown (Sugar) Parsnip—[before 1850]
Cayenne, Long Red Pepper—[pre-1827]
White Icicle (Lady Finger) Radishes—[pre-1865]
Black Spanish Round Radishes—[pre-1824]
China Rose (Rose Colored Chinese, Scarlet China Winter)—[about 1850]
Early White Bush Scallop (White Patty Pan) Squash—[pre-1722]
Yellow Crookneck Squash—[about 1700]
Connecticut Field (Big Tom, Yankee Cow Pumpkin)—pre-1700
Seminole Pumpkin—[in Florida in 1500s]
Small Sugar (New England Pie, Sugar Pumpkin)—[Pre-1860]
Tan Cheese Pumpkin—[pre-1824]
Lard Red Tomato—[by 1843]
Red Cherry (Old Fashioned Red Cherry) Tomato—[before 1840]
Riesentraube Tomato—[Pennsylvania Dutch by 1855]
White Wonder Tomato—[pre-1860]
Amber Globe (Yellow Globe) Turnips—[prior to 1840]

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

The following varieties are listed in Taylor's Guide to Heirloom Vegetables, by Benjamin Watson.  Boston:  Houghton Mifflin, 1996.  This book includes photographs of many of these varieties.

Artichoke
Green Globe—the standard main-crop variety, listed by Burr in 1863
Beans—Snap, Bush
Black Valentine—before 1850
Red Valentine—1832, first listed by Landreth Seed Co.
Beans—Snap, Pole
Blue Coco—1775
Cherokee Trail of Tears—by early 1830s
Kentucky Wonder (Old Homestead)—1850s
Beans—Horticultural or Shell Beans, Bush
Dwarf Horticultural—late 1700s
Vermont Cranberry Bush—1700s
Beans—Horticultural or Shell Beans, Pole
Lazy Wife (White Cranberry)—1810
Wren's Egg (London Horticultural)—1825
Beans—Dry or Field Beans, Bush
Black Turtle (Turtle Soup), before 1806
Hutterite (1750s)
Beans—Dry or Field Beans, Pole
Ruth Bible (1832)
Fava or Broad Beans
Windsor (Broad Windsor)—1863
Crimson-Flowered--1778
Lima or Butter Beans, Pole
Christmas (1840s)
Civil War (1860s)
Red Calico—1790
Beans—Runner
Black Runner—1654
Painted Lady—1827
Scarlet Runner—before 1750
White Dutch Runner—before 1825
Beets
Golden Beet—before 1828
Yellow Intermediate Mangel—1863
Broccoli
Early Purple Sprouting—before 1835
Cabbage—Green
Early Jersey Wakefield—1840s
Late Flat Dutch (Premium Late Flat Dutch)—before 1840
Carrot
Belgium White—before 1863
Early Scarlet Horn—before 1610
Long Orange Improved—1850
Topweight—1750s
Cauliflower
Purple Cape—1834
Corn—Sweet, white
Black Mexican (Black Aztec, or Black Sweet)—before 1860
Stowell's Evergreen—1848
Corn, Dent
Bloody Butcher—1845
Corn, Flour
Tuscarora—before 1712
Cucumbers, Pickling
Early Cluster—1778
Early Russian—1850s
Cucumbers, Slicing
China Long—1862
Long Green Improved—1842
West Indian Gherkin—1793
Endive
Green Curled Ruffec—before 1863
Kale
Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch—1863
Thousand-Headed—before 1863
Red Russian (Ragged Jack)—before 1863
Collards
Green Glaze—before 1860
Kohlrabi
Early Purple Vienna—before 1860
Early White Vienna—before 1860
Lettuce, Looseleaf
Black-Seeded Simpson—1850
Deer Tongue (Matchless)—1740s
Grandpa Admire's (Grandpa's)—1860s
Lettuce, Heading
Brune d'Hiver—1855
Hanson—before 1855
Limestone Bibb (Bibb)—1850
Tennis Ball—before 1804
Tom Thumb—1830
Lettuce—Cos (Romaine)
Paris White Cos—before 1868
Rouge d'Hiver (Red Winter)—1840s
Melons
Casaba, Golden Beauty--1850
Jenny Lind—1846
Nutmeg—1830s
Mustard Greens
Southern Giant Curled—1740s
Onions—Bunching (Welsh)
Red Welsh Bunching—by 1863
Onions—Egyptian (Topset or Walking)—before 1700
Onions—Multiplier
Yellow Potato Onion (Hill Onion, Mother Onion, Pregnant Onion)—before 1828
Onions—Red and Purple Skinned
Red Wethersfield—ca. 1800
Onions—Yellow Skinned
Yellow Globe Danvers—before 1850
Parsley
Hamburg Root—before 1600
Parsnip
Hollow Crown—1850
Peas—Shelling
Champion of England—1846
Blue Pot Capucijners—before 1600
Peas—Edible Podded
Dwarf Gray Sugar—before 1773
Peppers—Hot
Long Red Cayenne (Long Cayenne)—before 1827
Peppers—Sweet
Bull Nose (Large Bell, Sweet Mountain)—1759
Golden Summit—before 1800
Cherry Sweet (Red Cherry)—before 1860
Radish
China Rose—ca. 1850
Long Black Spanish—before 1828
Rat's Tail (Mongri, Snake Radish)—before 1860
Round Black Spanish—before 1824
Rhubarb
Victoria—before 1863
Salsify
Mammoth Sandwich Island—1860s
Squash and Pumpkins
Boston Marrow—before 1831
Turk's Turban—before 1818
Green-Striped Cushaw—1820s
Cheese Pumpkin—1824
Connecticut Field Pumpkin—before 1700
Early Yellow Summer Crookneck—ca. 1700
Small Sugar Pumpkin (New England Pie)—before 1860
White Bush Scallop—before 1722
Yellow Bush Scallop—before 1860
Swiss Chard
Fordhook Giant—1750
Rhubarb Chard (Ruby Chard)—1857
Tomatoes—Red
Riesentraub—before 1847
Tomatoes—Yellow Orange
Yellow Pear—before 1805
Turnips
Golden Ball—by 1863
Seven Top—1845
Waldoboro Greenneck—1780s
Watermelon
Red-Seeded Citron (for preserving)—before 1863

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Vegetables suggested for use at
Barrington Living History Farm (1847-1856)
Washington, TX:

Turnips—Seven Top; American Purple Top Rutabaga; Amber Globe
Tomatoes—Large Red; Yellow Pear; Red Cherry
Squash—Boston Marrow; Hubbard; Green-Striped Cushaw; Turk's Turban; Early Yellow Summer Crookneck; White Bush Scallop; Yellow Bush Scallop
Radishes—China Rose; Round Black Spanish
Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes
Pumpkins—Connecticut Field; Cheese Pumpkin; Small Sugar
Peppers—Long Red Cayenne; Red Squash; Bull Nose; Cherry Sweet
Cowpeas/Black-Eyed Peas—Calico Chowder; Big Red Ripper (Mandy)
Peas—Dwarf Gray Sugar; Prince Albert Pea
Parsnips—Hollow Crown
Onions—Red Weathersfield; White Portugal
Muskmelons and Watermelons—Casaba; Golden Beauty; Jenny Lind; Ice Cream
Watermelon
Lettuce—Black-Seeded Simpson; Oak Leaf
Cucumbers—Improved Long Green; Early Cluster or Early Russian; West Indian
Gherkin
Carrots—Long Orange Improved; Early Scarlet Horn
Cabbage—Early Jersey Wakefield; Late Flat Dutch; Early Flat Dutch
Beets—Early Blood Turnip; Mammoth Red Mangel Wurtzel (used for livestock feed)
Beans—Snap Bush--Black Valentine; Soldier
            Dry Pole—Ruth Bible
            Bush Lima—Jackson Wonder Butter Bean; Carolina or Sieva Lima Bean
            Pole Lima—Christmas
            Snap Pole—Kentucky Wonder
            Horticultural or (Green Shell) Bush—Dwarf Horticultural or Wren's Egg
            Horticultural or (Green Shell) Pole—Lazy Wife (White Cranberry)
            Dry Bush—Black Turtle; Jacob's Cattle
            Runner—Scarlet Runner; White Half-Runner
            English or Broad Beans (Fava)—Broad Windsor; Early Long Pod

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

The following excerpt is taken from William N. White's Gardening for the South; or the Kitchen and Fruit Garden, pp.286-299.

Medicinal Herbs.
A few roots of the most useful of these should be found in every garden.  The following is a descrïption of those most used in families, including their medicinal qualities, and ample directions for their cultivation.  The medicinal properties of many of these depend upon their aromatic qualities, and they are never so fragrant and full of virtue when grown upon ground highly manured.  Chamomile, lavender, rosemary, rue, wormwood, and many others, lose much of their strength when forced into rank growth.  Common garden soil, without manuring, is quite good enough.  Whenever the plants begin to decline, take away the old surface soil, and apply fresh, or set out new plants in fresh ground.
Medicinal, pot, or sweet herbs, as a general rule, should be gathered when in bloom, and dried carefully and thoroughly in the shade.  When thoroughly dry, press them closely into paper bags, or powder them finely; sift, and keep in closely-stopped bottles.

Dill—Cultivated for its seeds, which have an aromatic odor, and a warm, pungent, and somewhat bitter taste.  Medicinally, they are good for flatulence and colic in infants.  The leaves are sometimes used for culinary purposes, and the seeds are occasionally added to pickled cucumbers to heighten the flavor.
Fennel—Fennel is a good deal used, in continental Europe, in soups, fish-sauces, garnishes, and salads.  It is also considerably used in England, but less with us.  The Italians blanch and eat the stalks like celery.  A little fennel seed sometimes gives an agreeable variety in flavoring applesauce and pies.  But it is most used medicinally.  The seeds are carminative and stimulant, and in an infusion are excellent for the flatulent colic of infants.
Angelica—Its stalks were formerly blanched and eaten like celery, but it is now mostly cultivated to make a sweetmeat from them when young and tender.  They are also candied by the confectioners.
Chamomile—A perennial, a native of England, cultivated for its flowers, which have a bitter, aromatic taste, and are in small doses a useful tonic, but given largely, act as an emetic.  An infusion of them improved digestion and gives tone to the disordered stomach.  The flowers are sometimes chewed as a substitute for tobacco.
Wormwood—It is cultivated for the tops or extremities of the branches.  Its properties are tonic, diuretic, and it is a vermifuge.  The dried leaves steeped in vinegar are a very useful application to fresh bruises, for which it is well worth cultivating.  It is also usefully employed in antiseptic fomentations.
Southernwood—Is very nearly allied to the above, both being species of the same genus, and similar as to medical properties.  Like wormwood, it has a grateful odor, but it is not much used in medicine from its nauseous taste.  It is a stimulant, vermifuge, and emmenagogue.
Borage—The tender tops, young leaves, and flowers, are sometimes used as a salad by the French, and boiled by the Italians.  Medicinally it was formerly thought endowed with very great virtues, and numbered among the four cordial flowers.  The plant is not much used now except as an ingredient in the drink called "a cool tankard," made of wine, water, lemon-juice, and sugar, to which a few of the tender leaves seem to give additional coolness.
Caraway—Caraway is cultivated for its seeds, which are used in confectionery; as in cakes, comfits, &c., and the leaves are sometimes used in soups.  The roots are said to excel those of the parsnip, being formerly cooked and used in the same manner.  Medicinally the seeds are used in an infusion for flatulence.
Blessed Thistle—An infusion of the leaves is used as a stomachic, to produce an appetite; if strong, it promotes perspiration.  This plant had formerly a great reputation, but it is now little used.  The taste is very bitter and the smell disagreeable.
Coriander—Some like its tender leaves for soups and salads, but it is raised mostly for its seeds which have a pleasant aromatic taste, though the smell is disagreeable.  Coriander seed is carminative and stomachic.  It is often used to disguise the taste of medicines, but it is principally employed in confectionery.
Thoroughwort, or Boneset—It has a faint odor, an intensely bitter taste, and is slightly astringent.  Its medicinal virtues are diaphoretic, tonic, and in larger doses, emetic and aperient.  It is principally used as a diaphoretic in colds, catarrhs, and rheumatism, in intermittent, remittent, and inflammatory diseases, or given cold as a tonic in dyspepsia.  A strong infusion given warm in bed is almost a sovereign remedy for a cold.  To a pint of boiling water, add one ounce of the leaves and flowers, and take it hot at two or three doses.
Liquorice—The saccharine juice of the root is useful in catarrhs, fevers, &c.  Its taste is sweet and mucilaginous, and it is much used as a demulcent, either alone or combined with other substances, for lung diseases.
Hyssop—The leaves and flower-stalks are the parts used medicinally.  It has an aromatic odor, and a warm pungent taste.  It is stimulant and expectorant, and employed in humoral asthma and chronic catarrh.
Elecampane—It is cultivated for its thick, fleshy, carrot-like root, which is useful as an aromatic tonic and expectorant.  It is very beneficial in chronic coughs and catarrhs, and also in dyspepsia.  An infusion of the root is excellent for a common cold.  
Lavender—It is cultivated for its fragrant spikes of flowers, which are used for the distillation of Lavender-water.  Being dried and put up in paper bags, they are also used to perfume linen.  Both flowers and leaves are very aromatic.  It has an agreeable pungent bitterness to the taste, and its medical properties are stimulant, cordial, and stomachic, and the essential oil mixed with proof spirits is very useful in cases of fainting and paralysis, but the chief use of the plant is as a perfume.
Peppermint—It has a strong, agreeable odor, a pungent, aromatic taste, giving a sensation of coldness in the mouth.  Its medical properties are aromatic, stimulant, and stomachic.  It is much used to obviate nausea and relieve flatulent colic.  The essential oil and essence are the forms in which it is employed in medicine, and they are also largely used in confectionery and cordials.
Spearmint—It is employed in sauces and salads, as well as dried for soups in winter.  A few sprigs of mint boiled a little time with them, and then withdrawn, are though by some to improve the flavor of green peas.  it is also used in preparing mint-julep.  Its medicinal properties are aromatic, stimulant, and stomachic.  The leaves boiled in milk are useful in diarrhoea.  Its infusion is good to prevent nausea.
Pennyroyal—It is used for colds, and also as an emmenagogue.  Its essence will sometimes relieve the toothache.
Balm—It has an aromatic taste, and a grateful fragrant smell, a little like lemons.  It is used in making balm-tea, a grateful drink in fevers, and for forming a pleasant beverage called balm wine.  The infusion promotes perspiration, and is thought good for complaints produced by a disordered nervous system.
Horehound—It has a strong aromatic smell, and a bitter, pungent taste, which is permanent in the mouth; medicinally, horehound is a tonic, somewhat stimulant and diuretic, and in large doses laxative.  it is useful in asthma and jaundice, and is a favorite remedy in pulmonary complaints.  Obstinate catarrhs have been cured by taking the expressed juice in new milk.  It enters largely into the composition of cough syrups and lozenges.
Anise—It is cultivated for its seeds, and its leaves which are occasionally used as a garnish, and for seasoning like fennel.  The seeds have a fragrant agreeable smell, and a sweetish pleasant taste.  They are useful in weakness of the stomach and bowels, in dyspepsia, and colic, and in restoring the tone of the stomach generally.
Rosemary—It has a fragrant, grateful odor, and a warm aromatic bitter taste.  Its medicinal virtues are tonic, stimulant, and resolvent, and is a useful, but powerful emmenagogue.  It is employed in chlorosis, uterine obstructions, and nervous headaches generally.  It was formerly believed that this plant gave strength to the memory.  The tender tops are the parts used in medicine.
Rue—Its taste is bitter and pungent, and the leaves so acrid as to blister the skin.  It is a very powerful medicinal agent, and must be employed with caution.  It is tonic, stimulant, antispasmodic, and an emmenagogue, owing its power to the essential oil of the leaves.  Rue is much used in hysteria and nervous complaints, also for flatulent colic.  A strong infusion as a clyster is found useful in the convulsions of children.  The plant is too powerful to be generally used in family practice.
Sage—It has been cultivated from the earliest times, was classed among the heroic remedies, and considered the best of medicines for prolonging human life.  It has a fragrant smell, and a warm bitterish aromatic taste.  The leaves are used for seasoning stuffings, sauces, and many kinds of meat, as well as to improve the flavor of various other articles of cookery.  Medicinally its infusion is given warm as a sudorific, or mingled with vinegar and alum is an excellent gargle in sore throat.
Clary—The leaves of this plant were formerly used in soups, and its flowers are now made use of in a fermented wine.  The medicinal virtues of the plant are cordial and astringent, and it is used either in its fresh or dried state.
Bene—Introduced into this country by the negroes.  The seed are used for food in many parts of the world, and are also cultivated for the oil with which they abound.  The leaves abound in mucilage; one or two stirred in a pint of water, will form a bland mucilaginous drink very useful in cholera infantum, dysentery and summer complaints generally.  
Tansy—It was formerly used to give flavor to puddings and omelets.  Its medical properties are tonic and stomachic.  It is also a vermifuge.  It is much used as a domestic remedy beneficial in dyspepsia, hysteria, arising from uterine affections, and in gout.  It was formerly of very general use in the preparation of alcoholic bitters.

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Although Affleck's Almanac does not include a section on pest control, William White in Gardening in the South devotes eleven pages to the eradication of "vermin" in both vegetables and fruit.  For caterpillars that develop into moths:
"Erect a post in the centre of the garden, on which nail a platform of planks some thirty inches square, which cover with sand; on this build nightly a fire of fat lightwood for some weeks, from the time that moths, millers, and butterflies begin to infest the garden.  Large numbers will fly into the fire and be consumed.
Hang up common porter bottles, though wide-mouthed bottles are preferable, during the same season, with a few spoonfuls of sweetened water or molasses and vinegar in them to be renewed every second evening, and hundreds of moths that would have been the parents of a new race of destroyers will be caught.  This is the most promising mode of waging war also upon the melon-worm as well as the corn and boll-worm, and many other insects.  For filling the bottles, a better preparation still is a pint of water to half a pint of molasses, the water having as much cobalt dissolved in it as it will take up before mixing with the molasses.  Put a wineglassful to each bottle and empty once or twice a week."
After the vegetables have become established, keep the chickens and other fowl in the garden to pick off cabbage worms.  Allow wild birds and toads to live in and near the garden.
After the plants have been attacked a number of preparations may be used:
"Try the camphor preparation of R. B. in the Southern Cultivator.  Put into a barrel of water a quarter of a pound of camphor, in pieces the size of a hickory nut, fill with water and let it stand a day, and with this water our plants, and fill the barrel for the next watering.  The camphor is slowly absorbed, and will last a long time.  If the camphor water is too weak, add to a barrel of water a cupful or more of strong lye, and more will dissolve.  Add also a pound of cheap cape aloes to a gallon of lye (or water in which a pound of saleratus or potash has been dissolved); add a pint of this to a barrel of water, and use as the camphor water.  Camphor and aloes (especially the former) are offensive to most insects.
Try also sprinkling the plants with ashes, air-slaked lime, charcoal dust impregnated with the odor of oil turpentine, soot, sulphur, or better still, Scotch snuff sifted on the plants, by placing it in a tin cup, with the mouth covered with gauze, and shaking it when inverted over the plants.  Try also to drive away the insects.
Watering them and the plants with an infusion of tobacco, or China berries, soapsuds, solutions of guano, or whale oil soap, when the latter can be obtained.  Fumigating with sulphur and tobacco is very efficient.  But tobacco water is the great remedy."
For specific pests:
Aphids—Tobacco juice with soapsuds
Ants—Pour boiling water down their nests, or catch them in wide-mouthed bottles containing sweetened water
Melon Worm—Light wood fires or catching them in bottles
Caterpillars—Tobacco and soap preparation, or pick them off by hand
Cutworm or Black Grub—Check every morning; wrap tender stems in paper
Cucumber and Squash Bugs—Plants may be sown under boxes covered with millinet
Corn Worm—Wide-mouth jars; four parts vinegar to one of molasses put on a dinner plate placed on a board six inches square fastened to a stake a little taller than the plants; possibly lightwood fires
Turnip fly—Highly manured ground; Dust plants with lime, soot ashes, &c., or keep chickens in turnip patch
Mice—Traps
Moles—Traps; Tarred sticks in their burrows; salt soil to kill insects they eat
Hares and Rabbits—Tight board fence or close hedge of Macartney rose

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation

Bibliography

Unpublished Sources
Agriculture Notebook.  Barrington Living History Farm, Washington, TX. (April 28,
2005)
Fanning, James Gatliff.  Journal.  Pearce Civil War Collection, Navarro College,
Corsicana, TX.  (Gonzales County, TX, 1857-1870)
Johnson, Majesta M.  "A Survey of the Food Supply and Diet of the Anglo-American
Settlers in Texas, 1821-1870."  M.A. thesis, Rice Institute, 1954.

Books, Brochures, and Articles
Abt, Jeffry and Leabeth Abt.  "Documents:  The Gardening Sentiments of an Early Texas
Pioneer."  East Texas Historical Journal 29 no. 1 (1991):  63-69.  (Newton
County, TX, 1837-1840)
Affleck, Thomas.  Affleck's Southern Rural Almanac and Plantation and Garden Calendar
for 1860.  Washington Co., TX:  Affleck's Central Nurseries, 1859.  Reprint ed.  
Brenham, TX:  The New Year's Creek Settlers Association, 1986.
Bacot, H. Parrott, et al.  Marie Adrien Persac:  Louisiana Artist.  Baton Rouge:  Louisiana
State University, 2000. [illustration only]
Brown, Frances Rhodes.  Diary of Fannie Brown, Jan 1, 1861 thru Dec 31, 1861.  N. p.:  
n. p., n. d.  (Longview Public Library, Longview, TX)
Burr, Fearing, Jr.  The Field and Garden Vegetables of America:  Containing Full
Descrïptions of Nearly Eleven Hundred Species and Varieties; With Directions for
Propagation, Culture, and use; Illustrated.  2nd ed.  Boston:  J. E. Tilton and Co.,
1865.  Reprint ed.  Chillicothe, IL:  American Botanist, 1994. [a Northern source,
but the descrïptions and illustrations of various varieties are good]
Clinton, Catherine.  The Plantation Mistress:  Woman's World in the Old South.  New
York:  Pantheon Books, 1982.
Favretti, Rudy J. and Joy Putman Favretti.  Landscapes and Gardens for Historic
Buildings.  2d ed., Rev. Nashville, TN:  American Association for State and Local
History, 1991. [mostly landscaping, but does include a list of authentic plants
for  recreating period landscapes, broken down to those introduced 1600-1699,
1700-1776, 1776-1850, including vegetables and field crops, and herbs,
aromatic, culinary and medicinal]
Fox-Genovese.  Within the Plantation Household:  Black and White Women of the Old
South.  Chapel Hill:  University of North Carolina Press, 1988.
Hardinge, Sarah Ann Lillie.  Views of Texas, 1852-1856:  Watercolors by Sarah Ann Lillie
Hardinge Together with a Journal of Her Departure from Texas.  Ft. Worth:  Amon
Carter Museum, 1988. [illustration only]
Hatch, Peter J.  The Gardens of Monticello.  Charlottesville, VA:  Thomas Jefferson
Memorial Foundation, 1992.
Henson, Margaret S.  Anglo American Women in Texas, 1820-1850.  Boston:  American
Press, 1982.
Hilliard, Sam Bowers.  Hog Meat and Hoecake:  Food Supply in the Old South, 1840-
1860.  Carbondale, IL:  Southern Illinois University Press, 1972.
"Horticulture."  The Texas Almanac for 1857, with Statistics, Historical and Biographical
Sketches, &c., Relating to Texas.  Galveston:  Richardson & Co., 1856, pp. 4, 7,
9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29,
Illustrated Catalogue of American Hardware of the Russell and Erwin Manufacturing
Company:  An Unabridged Reprint of the 1865 Edition and a New Introduction by
Lee H. Nelson, AIA.  Reprint ed.  [Ottawa?]:  Association for Preservation
Technology, 1980.
Leighton, Ann.  American Gardens of the Nineteenth Century:  "For Comfort and
Affluence."  Amherst, MA:  University of Massachusetts Press, 1987.
[predominantly flower gardens and landscaping]
Massey, Mary Elizabeth.  Ersatz in the Confederacy:  Shortages and Substitutes on the
Southern Homefront.  Columbia:  University of South Carolina Press, 1952,
1993.
Mills, Anita L.  Come to the Bower:  Historic Gardening in Texas.  Dallas:  Domestic Arts
Heritage Center, 2003.
Silverthorne, Elizabeth.  Plantation Life in Texas.  College Station, TX:  Texas A&M
University Press, 1986.  University of South Carolina Press, 2003.
Thornton, P.  The Southern Gardener and Receipt Book.  2d ed.  Newark, NJ:  A. L.
Dennis, 1845.  Reprint ed.  Birmingham, AL:  Oxmoor House, 1984.  Note:  
Thornton was from Camden, SC. [includes vegetable by vegetable growing
instructions]
Trent, Hank.  "With Heirloom Garden Seeds, You're Not Growing Better, You're Growing
Older."  The Citizen's Companion.  4 no. 6 (February-March 1998):  25-27.
Tucker, David M.  Kitchen Gardening in America:  A History.  Ames, Iowa:  Iowa State
University Press, 1993.
"The Vegetable Garden."  Charlottesville, VA:  Thomas Jefferson Memorial Foundation,
Inc., n.d. (brochure)
"The Vegetable Garden" in Maupay's Southern Gardener's Directory, New Orleans, 1861.  
Confederate imprints, 1861-1865, microfilm reel 94, item no. 2930.
Vlach, John Michael.  Back of the Big House:  The Architecture of Plantation Slavery.  
Chapel Hill:  University of North Carolina Press, 1993. [illustration only]
Watson, Benjamin.  Taylor's Guide to Heirloom Vegetables.  Boston:  Houghton Mifflin,
1996.
Welch, William C.  "Texas Pioneer Gardens."  Proceedings of the Fourth Annual Fall
Gardening Symposium:  Oktober Gartenfest, October 24-25, 1997, Round Top,
Texas:  Gardens Grow Into Organizations.  Texas:  n.p., 1997, pp. 19-22. (nearly
all flowers and landscaping)
Welch, William C. and Greg Grant.  The Southern Heirloom Garden.  Lanham, MD:  
Taylor Trade Publishing, 1995.  (nearly all flowers)
White, William N.  Gardening for the South; or the Kitchen and Fruit Garden:  With the
Best Methods for their Cultivation, together with Hints Upon Landscape and
Flower Gardening.  New York:  C. M. Saxton and Co; Athens, GA:  Wm. N.
White, 1856, pp.286-299.  American Culture Series II microfilm, reel 617.2.

Websites
Newspaper Research, 1861-1865.  http://www.uttyl.edu/vbetts/newspaper_titles.htm
White, Christie.  "Documenting and Interpreting Early 19th-Century Rural Gardens at
Old Sturbridge Village."  ALHFAM Conference Session:  Establishing Historic
Gardens:  From Research to Interpretation—A Workshop."  1989.  
http://www.osv.org/learning/DocumentViewer.php?DocID=747

Current Catalogs
D. Landreth Seed Company.  Catalog.  650 N. North Point Road, Baltimore, MD 21237.  
$10 refundable with first purchase.  History of company:  
http://www.landrethseeds.com/history.html
South Carolina Foundation Seed Association.  Catalog.  
http://www.virtual.clemson.edu/groups/seed/newpage21.htm
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange.  2005 Catalog and Garden Guide.  P. O. Box 460,
Mineral, VA 23117.  http://www.southernexposure.com.  

Kitchen Gardens to Visit in the Lower South
Barrington Farm, Washington, TX Somerset Place, Creswell, NC
Westville, Stewart County, GA Burritt Museum, Huntsville, AL
Tullie Smith Farm, Atlanta History Center, Atlanta, GA

Vicki Betts "Gardening" presentation