Ok, mods if this is inappropriate feel free to move or delete. I know there has been a lot of flack on other boards between the two ends of the hobby, but with this being the common ground I thought I would try to start something a little different. Call it the school of the C/P/H. In this thread I propose that you can ask anything in regards to the C/P/h and I implore C/P/Hers to respond with kindness anf gentillity as this is designed for those wanting to learn about the C/P/H and have maybe been intimidated by the other boards. Absolutely NO INFIGHTING ALLOWED, respectful disagreements OK.

First, what is a C/P/H? C/P/H refers to "Campaign, Progressive, Hardcore". ALthough these titles have become to mean different things to different people it is basically a type of reenacting that tries to replicate the time frame as accurately as possible. Many who deride this branch of the hobby refer to these folks as stitch counters (or Stitch Nazis), button whizzers, as well as other names I will not repeat in polite company. The truth is that these folks have simply taken the hobby to a different level and do not eat their young. Per the note I sent Bill last week I will call this Introduction to campaigning or CPH 101.

First of all C/P/Hers do not count stitches, use bodily fluids to tarnish their buttons or any such stuff. What they do is research everything they can about their impression and replicate it the best they possibly can without dying from period diseases. Now the point of contention is ususally involved in the material culture. You will notice that material culture is not discussed until the end of this dissertation and there is a reason for this which you will discover as we go forward. There are three issues I want to discuss here and in this order:
1. Man
2. Methods
3. Materials

First let's start with man. The most important aspect in the C/P/H is the attitude of the person. Where we often get into trouble are those who are not willing to abide by the rules of an event. Yes, you will need to leave behind your cell phone, wrist watch, Top Gun aviators, funnel cakes, etc. This has led to the misconception that C/P/H people hate the mainstream. Although there are no absolutes, this is majorily false. If you are happy doing the mainstream and doing the more "hardcore" type events has no appeal to you whatsoever that is OK. It is important however that you understand that living in an A-frame or wall tent with only one or two privates on cots or air mattresses and coolers is not "how they did it". One of my pet peeves is people representing this as the way it was. We have to be honest that we may be doing a bang up job of portraying a soldier on the field but when we retire to camp we are doing Civil War theme camping at that point and let me state that there is nothing wrong with that at the right event. Likewise many in the C/P/h vein of the hobby avoid such events as it is not what they enjoy and we need to respect that as well. These folks are not obligated to come to a mainstream event any more than a dyed in the wool mainstreamer are obligated to go to a C/P/H event. It is important to understand that at a C/P/H event you will be expected to act like a soldier with duties that must be done including possibly pickett duty at 3:00 AM. There willnot be as much "down time", there won't be hanging out on sutler row, there will be people expecting you to follow their orders, etc. With the right attitude, you are 90% of the way to the C/P/H way.

Next is Method. This ties right back to attitude and what you will be doing. Like we mentioned earlier you will be expected to carry out your assigned duties as a private in 186X would have. You will also be expected to be in the mindset of that 19th century soldier. Once you have left the parking lot, nobody cares about the Superbowl, the flat you had on the way, where you are goingto stop to eat on the way home, etc. You should avoid anachronistic talk at all times and stick to what you would have known had you been alive at the time. This leads us to the most improtant method for the C/P/Her, research. One thing that separates the C/P/Her from many (definitely not all) of the mainstream is the amount of time they spend researching the impression. Before stepping off the curb you should have some idea of the role you are portraying. If you are in Lee's ANV, you would not have been in the Battle of Atlanta for example and would have limited knowledge of that event (if at all dependent on the time and scenario). If you are at 1st Manassas, it would be very incorrect to discuss Lee's fight at Gettysburgh as it is four years in the future.

Another thing about method is the misconceptions. One popular misconception is the C/P/H doewn't use canvas. Not true. The C/P/H will use canvas where appropriate. If doing a garrison event where they had A-frames (wedge tents), Sibly's, wall tents, etc they will have them but they will also have the appropriate number of men per tent as well. Likewise they do often sleep under the stars with only a gum blanket and wool blanket for protection. It really depends on the event.

Meals also come under method. Generally speaking, the C/P/H will eat standard rations that would have been issued or foraged at that time and place. For example, they would not be eating fresh peaches in January at Olustee. Often rations will be issued other times you may be asked to bring your own. The bottom line though is that your haversack would have been used to carry these rations and you should be able to fit three days worth of food in that little bag.

Finally is materials. This point of contentions seems to get the largest amount of attention. Yes you are expected to have as authentic a kit as possible, yes it is generally more expensive article for article that the sutler row specials, but no it's not prohibitively more expensive if you are a smart shopper. The problem with most sutler row garments is that they fall short on at leat one of the following: the correct pattern, materials, or construction. Generally speaking more authentic uniforms are patterned after originals that still exist, many of the cheaper reproductions are patterned after other reproduction or some costume grade patter. Often the material is wrong as well: wool that is too heavy or not woven correctly, dyes that are the wrong color, synthetic blends, etc. Construction also has to be considered. yes they had sewing machines but they sewed in a completely different way than modern machines. hand finishing was also very common which means that although machine done top stitching and buttonholes were not unheard of they were uncommon and they did not look like today's machine stitching. You're thinking Ok but what difference does it make if you can not tell from 20 feet away? The truth is it goes back to #1 attitude are you trying to recreate history or trying to do the minimum? Likewise there is the "if they'd had they'd used it" argument especially when it comes to tin vs. stainless canteens and other minimal anachronisms. That is true but if they could have gotten their hands on Camelbacks, Humvees, and M-1 Abrahms tanks they would have used those as well; once again look at requirement #1.

Now having said that you can not expect to show up for a C/P/H event wearing the cheapest kit you could get your hands on and expect to be accepted (see rule #1) but you will also generally not be turned away for one or two small infractions either as long as you take care of rule #1. What you must do is read the requirements for the event before signing up. If you can not meet those requirements, panic not; try to borrow what you need. If yuo are unable to acquire the needed equipment for the event, contact the organizer and be honest in what you are lacking, in most cases they will work with you on getting you in with what you have or locate loaner gear for you. One thing to remember is anachronisms are verboten. No modern watches, cell phones, glasses, etc. Medication can and should be carried but keep them ina period container or poke sack and try to be discreet when taking them.

One mistake I see from many upon first entering the hobby (myself included) is to jump in and start buying because you hate to borrow. The first thing to do is slow down and buy nothing until after your fist couple of events (other than a couple of necessities such as eating utensils or some such). Often you end up buying the wrong thing or poor quality stuff because of inexperience. One argument many make is I can't afford maker Xs stuff, I have to buy the cheap stuff. Most units allow at least a year to get your basic kit together. keep you eyes peeled and you can often get nearly new top end gear for about the same price as the less authentic stuff. fear not the loaner box. Secondly get a mentor who can help you build your impression but only trust that mentor after verifying for yourself they are correct (remember that research caluse).

Thus concludes the introduction to what we need to discuss. Please feel free to ask questions and add to the discussion as fou feel appropriate. Remember, everybody here be nice or I will alert the mods.

It's all about effort. And, the amount of effort you put into your hobby.  BTW, that was very nicely written.

Guys,

There is one item I would suggest a new person does rush out and buy, a pair of brogans that fit. At the big events, you may be able to get by with a pair of work boots for an event, or two. That won't cut it at most of the more authentic events. There is nothing worse than spending a weekend in a pair of shoes that don't fit, especially if much walking is involved.

It's been my experience that shoes don't make it into the loaner box until they are on their last legs and have been replaced by the doner. A raggidy uniform isn't much of an issue. A pair of shoes with rundown heels: or worse yet, a pair with the pegs coming up through the sole sure it.  

Quote :

Bill wrote : Guys, There is one item I would suggest a new person does rush out and buy, a pair of brogans that fit. At the big events, you may be able to get by with a pair of work boots for an event, or two. That won't cut it at most of the more authentic events. There is nothing worse than spending a weekend in a pair of shoes that don't fit, especially if much walking is involved. It's been my experience that shoes don't make it into the loaner box until they are on their last legs and have been replaced by the doner. A raggidy uniform isn't much of an issue. A pair of shoes with rundown heels: or worse yet, a pair with the pegs coming up through the sole sure it.

Bob

Well said message.  I think one thing to add and it might fit with all the catagories is to READ, READ, READ.  Start simple with "trade" magazines like CWH, Camp Chase, CWTI, ACW etc..
Move onto the things like CRRC and the drill manuals.
At the same time look to find first person type books.. Co Aytch, Rebel Private: Front & Rear,Hardtack and Coffee, etc.. etc..

Bill,

I would agree with you on the shoes.  But also add a hat to that.  Those are the first 2 items we suggest getting because they are hard to come by for loaners.  Plus I know I was more comfortable when I got my own shoes and hat.  I knew I could now move much easier and also wasn't worried about destroying someone elses hat when I took hits or laid by the fire.

Great responses guys and exactly what I was looking for here!   I concurr on the shoes and possibly hat (I know my unit has a collection of hats that can be loaned and a couple of pair of decent shoes as well but that's another thread.

Quote :

lhsnj wrote :   Bob Well said message.  I think one thing to add and it might fit with all the catagories is to READ, READ, READ.  Start simple with "trade" magazines like CWH, Camp Chase, CWTI, ACW etc.. Move onto the things like CRRC and the drill manuals. At the same time look to find first person type books.. Co Aytch, Rebel Private: Front & Rear,Hardtack and Coffee, etc.. etc.. Bill, I would agree with you on the shoes.  But also add a hat to that.  Those are the first 2 items we suggest getting because they are hard to come by for loaners.  Plus I know I was more comfortable when I got my own shoes and hat.  I knew I could now move much easier and also wasn't worried about destroying someone elses hat when I took hits or laid by the fire.

Greg,

You go to the head of the class. I did touch on research and my next posting (later this week probably) will begin the required reading list for this class.

Fellas,

I'm just back from Shiloh and need to catch up, but this is exactly why I created these two folders.  I'm at work now, but I guarantee this old CPHer will comment tonight!

 

Quote :

Ken Cornett wrote : Fellas, I'm just back from Shiloh and need to catch up, but this is exactly why I created these two folders.  I'm at work now, but I guarantee this old CPHer will comment tonight!

Uh oh, it looks like we got the Dean's attention.  

This is something I wrote years ago, probably fits in this discussion. Real soldiers had clean weapons.


Detail Cleaning Your Rifle Musket
By Bill Rodman

You have been a Reenactor for a year or two, and have finally figured out how to pass your sergeant's weapons inspections. This means your “shooting iron” won’t blow up in your face, and the exterior looks pretty good. Well, the Season is almost over, and it’s time to give your weapon a real cleaning. A complete cleaning, and inspection, will protect your investment, and reduce the mechanical problems that can ruin a weekend. Next spring you might even get a smile from Sergeant Cannon.

First, you will need the proper tools and equipment. The most important tools, you will need, are screwdrivers that fit the screws on your rifle. The blade of the screwdriver must exactly fit the slot in the screw. In some cases, you will have to file down a screwdriver to fit a specific screw on your rifle. Trust me, it is worth the trouble. You will also need a nipple wrench, a cleaning rod (not the rod that comes with your rifle, that’s a ramrod), a bore brush, a cleaning jag, #0000 steel wool, 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper, a wood or plastic dowel and bore patches. You will also need cleaning products such as WD-40, gun grease, or the some of the non-petroleum products that are on the market. A bore light is also very helpful for inspecting the rifle’s bore.

The first step is to field strip your weapon. Remove the tang screw, and then remove the barrel bands. On Enfields you must loosen the screws on the bands. On Springfields, just depress the band springs and carefully slide the bands over the barrel. If the bands will not come loose, tap them gently with a dowel. Be sure your lock is on half cock, and carefully remove the barrel from the stock. Don’t just pull the barrel and stock apart, as you may split the wood around the tang. If you haven’t had your weapon apart before, the barrel may be very tight in the stock channel. Stand the rifle upright, and pull the barrel up and away from the stock. The secret is to take your time and be careful. After the barrel is off, you should remove the lock from the stock. The best way to remove the lock is to loosen both lock screws a couple of turns, and tap them with a plastic hammer, or the handle of a screwdriver, to free the lock from its bed in the stock. Continue unscrewing the lock a few turns at a time and insure that the lock is coming free. Again, be sure not to split the wood around the lock plate.    

After you have your weapon in three pieces, set the stock and lock aside and go to work on the barrel. First remove the nipple, using your nipple wrench. If you have a model 1861 Springfield or Richmond Rifle, you will also have to remove the cleanout screw in the bolster. If the nipple won’t come out there are a few things you can try. First, make sure your nipple wrench fits your nipple, then soak the nipple and bolster with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. While the nipple is soaking tap it gently with a hammer. If that doesn’t work, you can apply heat to the nipple, using a blowtorch. Do not overheat the barrel. Please note, the torch will destroy the bluing on an Enfield barrel. If the shoulders of the nipple are rounded over you may be able to use Vice-Grips to grasp the nipple. As a last resort, you can drill out the nipple and remove it with an easy-out bolt extractor. You may want to take the barrel to a gunsmith for this job if you are not familiar with the work.

After the nipple and cleanout screw are removed, place the breach of the barrel in a bucket of hot soapy water and scrub out any powder fouling, using the cleaning rod, jag, and patches. There are two types of cleaning jags. One type has a slot to slip a patch through. The other is sized for the bore, and holds the patch with a friction fit. The friction fit jags do a much better job, but you must be very careful, as they can get stuck in a rough bore. If you have any doubts about the condition of your bore, I would suggest you get a jag sized for .54 caliber, rather then .58 caliber. It is far better to have a jag too small, rather then too tight. It is relatively easy to remove a patch that slips from the jag; but removing a stuck jag can be a almost impossible, without removing the breach plug. Be sure that all fouling and corrosion are removed from the channel between the nipple and breach. This fouling can be as hard as concrete. Break Free cleaner seems to work well to dissolve these deposits. Dry the barrel and inspect the bore. It should shine like a mirror, If it doesn’t, wrap #0000 steel wool around a bore brush and scrub the bore with WD-40. The idea is to remove any rust, and smooth out any pitting in the barrel. After the bore is completely clean, wash it out again, dry it carefully, and lubricate the barrel. I use non-petroleum lubricants,  but a  good gun oil, such as Hoppe’s, or Outer’s also works well.

After you finish the bore, clean the exterior of the barrel. You may find a good deal of rust on the bottom of the barrel that is hidden by the stock, If your rifle has a bare steel barrel you should soak a piece of 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper with WD-40 and wrap it around the barrel. Carefully sand the barrel from muzzle to breach in smooth strokes to remove any rust or discoloration. After you finish sanding, polish the barrel with auto rubbing compound. The finished barrel should shine when you are done.

If your rifle has a blued barrel, rub any rust spots with a piece of wood soaked in WD-40. Removing the rust will also remove the bluing. These spots can be touched up with commercial cold bluing. Just follow the directions on the container. You should also touch up any nicks on the muzzle caused by the bayonet socket.  

The next step is to clean and inspect the lock. Scrub the lock with WD-40 or carb cleaner, using a stiff toothbrush. Be sure that all rust and corrosion is removed. After the lock is clean, wash the lock with soap and hot water. Use a hair drier to dry the lock. After the lock is cleaned, inspect it for any defects. First, look for any cracks or broken parts. Then check that all screws are tight. Insure that there is little or no play in the hammer. If there is play in the hammer the lock needs work. In most cases, you will need to replace the hammer, the tumbler, the lock plate, or all three. Spare parts are available from Lodgewood  Mfg. or the Regimental Quartermaster. The lock mechanism is rather complex. I would recommend you get help before you disassemble the lock, or take it to a gunsmith for repair.

Finally check the stock. Look for any cracks or splits in the wood. Minor splits and cracks can be repaired with wood glue and clamps. Check the inletting under the lock plate. Look for places the wood may be binding against the lock mechanism. The wood will shine where it rubs against the metal. Use a small file to remove the wood. Do not remove more wood then is necessary to free up the lock. In many cases, small dents can be removed by steaming. Place a small wet cloth over the dent and heat it with an iron. The hot steam will often raise the dent. Remove any rust or corrosion from the butt plate, trigger guard, and nose cap. On steel parts, use #600 wet or dry sandpaper and oil. On brass parts, use Brasso. When the stock is done, wipe it down with linseed oil and finish with a coat of furniture wax.

Now reassemble your weapon. First coat the underside of the barrel with a thin coat of gun grease, then carefully install it into the stock. Be sure the tang is seated into the stock. Replace the tang screw and the barrel bands. Do not tighten the tang screw at this time. . Coat the threads on the nipple with gun grease and  screw into the barrel. Be sure the nipple is seated against the bolster and is tight. If you have an 1861 Springfield install the cleanout screw at this time. Coat all the internal parts of the lock with gun grease. Be sure that the hammer shaft gets lubricated. Place the lock into the inlet on the stock. Be sure the trigger lever is under the hammer release on the lock. Replace the lock screws. Tighten both screws equally to insure that the lock is seated in the stock. After the lock is seated, tighten the tang screw, which will pull the barrel down into the lock.    

After you reassemble your rifle, test the action. Make sure the hammer is centered over the nipple, and hits square. Insure the half cock works. Put the weapon on half cock and lift it by the trigger. The hammer should not fall. There should be little, or no play in the hammer. Put your weapon on full cock, put your hand over the nipple and pull the trigger. The hammer should fall with no binding.  

This is also a good time for maintenance on your bayonet. Remove any rust with sandpaper or steel wool and oil. Make sure there are no burrs, or rough spots inside the socket, that will scratch your rifle’s barrel. Clean the inside of the socket with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Repro bayonets are poorly made and not very authentic. I would suggest you obtain an original bayonet. Nothing on the market compares to the originals.  

There are many different ways to clean muzzle-loading rifles, but these methods have worked well for me.  

--Last edited by Bill on 2007-04-16 13:20:04 --

Shoes, what a good point. Folks will spend big buck on a pair of tennis shoes that will wear out in a year or less but, will spend as little as they can on a pair of Bootees that they might wear 25 days a year(or less)and, will last for years if well taken care of.  I'll agree on the hat. Not, only is a properly constructed hat lighter and in most cases cooler, but it will not fade to an ugly color and it will last for years if properly cared for.

Any of those statements can be applied to most any piece of gear we may purchase for our hobby. I've been in the hobby 11 years and have not replaced any of my equipment due to wear or fading. I do have a lot more stuff than I did 11 years ago though...

Quote :

GrumpyDave wrote :  I've been in the hobby 11 years and have not replaced any of my equipment due to wear or fading. I do have a lot more stuff than I did 11 years ago though...

Grumpy,

I've been in the Hobby almost twenty years. Even the good stuff doesn't last that long. Not to mention the stuff I've outgrown!    

I went the other way. I've lost 50 pounds since I started. Really, My sack coats and trousers are a little worn but, besides replacing a button or two, quite servicable. All of my leather gear is in good shape. I replaced the leather tab and buckle on my haversack and have resewn the strap a couple of times. I did lose a boiler at ITW... OK, I have worn out at least two pairs of socks.

Quote :

GrumpyDave wrote : Any of those statements can be applied to most any piece of gear we may purchase for our hobby. I've been in the hobby 11 years and have not replaced any of my equipment due to wear or fading. I do have a lot more stuff than I did 11 years ago though...

I wish I could say that.  I didn't research when I made my first couple of purchases. I ended up buying a pair of pants that I eventually had to replace because they wore out in the groin.  It also didn't help that I wasn't using period drawers.  Needless to say I have replaced my shirt and federal pants in the 9 years I have been doing this and my brogans too.

My brogans didn't wear out, they were just getting too tight on my feet and so I replaced them with a nice pair of black ones..

I have worn out 2 pairs of nice bootees in the last eight years.  Just had my Missouri's re-soled (with the metal works   )and they were only two years old.  I had been averaging nearly 25 events a year, but have reduced it way down this year to about six.  Mine take a lot of wear and tear, but I do grease and dye them regularly.  Obviously the CPH events are rougher on them.  Anyone disagree?

Gents,

A good many things have been spoken here with this thread.  When I first created the CPH/Mainstream folders on the last forum, it was because we were in a stretch where no one was posting.  I certainly feared the "Us vs Them" cliche, but I knew we had good mods to combat that old song and dance.  These folders are for folks to ask questions about the complete spectrum of the hobby.  Our mods were selected for special reasons.  We tried to spread it across the board so that folks would feel comfortable.  So far, I think it has worked.

I have always loved Dave's answer and agree 100 percent with him when he says you get what you put into it.  This is soley for self satisfaction, but to get the larger experience, folks must play with other folks.  If you don't have like minded friends to some degree, then you won't learn much more about what it is you are trying to do.  Reenactors need other reenactors to be successful or just plain comfortable in the hobby.

Call me what you will, a CPHer, a hardcore, or an idiot, it is simply the level I like to play in the hobby and I have many friends at this level.  But I also have friends on the other end of the spectrum as well.  You will never hear me bash them on this forum because a common ground is expected here.  It's what makes it so nice to come in here every day.  Sure, I wish more folks would post, but maybe they need to be taken by the hand when they make that first post.  Guided and informed with respect and maturity.  I see this here so far.

Robert, I do think folks are afraid to jump in the ring on other forums, but they don't need to be here.  I'm just tickled this little old forum is active and on an even playing field.  We'll keep it that way for sure.

Well, I'm rambling, one of my weaknesses.  You all keep up the great conversations, I'm sure many are enjoying them.

A couple of good questions came up in the mainstream folder that I thought I could address further here and I do hope Anthony comes over nd joins us.

First it was again about the kit. Like I stated earlier in this thread the kit is part of the CPH hobby but of the three primary requirements it is number 3. Number one is attitude. The reason the rules for most CPH events are written in such strict language about kit has more to do with reqirement one than three. I went to my first CPH event with a sutler special accoutrement kit and nobody batted an eye at it (bear in mind it was still very good mainstream stuff and not the import junk). By making it seem that the kit will be inspected to the nth degree, they are trying to keep out the ones with the wrong attitude more than the wrong kit. If you are concerned with your kit and are trying to improve, you likely have the atitude right and would be welcome. All I suggest is work with the event organizers ahead of time and they will help make sure you can get into the event on the material culture. What they don't want a CPH event is the "well this is good enough for Guyandot so it should be good enough for you" attitude.

My mess, Mess No.1, states "Beyond the Gear!" on our website.  We try to submerge ourselves into the unit being portrayed by researching them as much as possible, the area to where they were enlisted (home area), historical facts from their hometowns, etc.  For this past weekend at Shiloh, I researched all ten of our pre-assigned soldiers from the 8th Illinois and found their height, hair and eye color, pre-war jobs, etc.  Even found that one of us was really killed at Donalson, but didn't raise a stink to the organizers.  We don't raise stinks!  Just on the trips up and down   .

We also take care of any new folks who want to try a harder, more authentic event.  We never discourage, but encourage as we have several veterans in our Mess.  

Robert, attitude is key.  If you don't have a good one, then everyone else will suffer.  Your last says a ton!

Ok, here is the next topic: Research.

I mentioned the required reading list but what I really want to do is start a discussion on research materials. Part of the CPH movement is to know your impression inside and out (something I am still trying to accomplish as is just about everyone since the learning never ceases). I will make a few recomendations of what I call CPH primers to get people thinking about their impressions.

Some  books that are good to start with are:

Hardtack and Coffee by Billings. This is a good introductory look into the day to day life of a soldier.

Corporal Si Klegg and His Pard by Hinman. Also a good look inside the day to day life of a soldier.

Echoes of Glory by Time Life. Three books in this set: Equipment of the Federal Army, Equipment of the  Confederate Army, and the Civil War Atlas. Although there have been some documented errors in these it still gives good photographic evidence of what the gear should look like.

Other good research sources for the material culture are the ORs (many available on line. These are especially valuable when trying to portray a soldier of a particular unit at a particular time. These will tell you exactly what those men would have had available to them. If you look at my avatar (that little picture thingie to the left) you will see me in a battleshirt that I had made specifically for my early war impression for the eastern theater. (BTW, that's my son's hand on my shoulder) Others in my unit do the St. Augustine Blues who had dark blue battleshirts with white belt accoutrements at certain garrison events at Ft. Clinch. These things are important to know to properly portray an event. I'm not saying you need 25 different uniforms, but you should at least have something proper for the scenario. A Columbus Depot jacket at Mannassas simply would not have happened, likewise it would have been highly unlikely to see a Richmond Depot II in the Western Theater (of course there are exceptions).

I recently picked up a book that chronicled the writings in the New York Times during the war. I will need to wait until I get home to see what the title was and the Author.

Pick up books and research letters that were written home by soldiers and civilians alike. Mary Chestnut had a well known diary that is in print.

Another book that I still need to get myself is the new Columbia Rifles Research Compendium. A lot of effort went into this publication by dedicated reenactors and it is extremely well researched.

Greg mentioned a couple of winners also with Company Aytch and Rebel Private Front and Rear. I also concurr with picking up the magazines geared towards our hobby with special emphasis on the Civil War Historian.

To portray a soldier you also need to know how to drill. It's also a good idea to be familiar wih the differnt styles of drill as well. Pick up a copy of both Hardee's and Casey's.

Look at period photographs, that is what you should be striving for.

The bottom line is read, read, read. I am currently reading Lee's Momoirs for about the fourth time since I got the book back in the 1980s.

Finally, visit museums whenever you can and really study the exhibits. I was recently at Pikett's Mill and had the opportunity to really study a Lorenz they had on display that was in exceptional shape.

Any other suggestions I overlooked (I'm sure there are numerous) for a beginning CPHer?  

--Last edited by toptimlrd on 2007-04-17 23:50:51 --

Another suggestion for books is one with lots of photos.  I have Touched by Fire: A National Historical Society Photographic Portrait of the Civil War by William C. Davis.

Also the PBS Ken Burns DVD "Civil War", I found that I could use this to get a time line and also there are some nice closeups of period photos.

Robert,rather than lumping CPH in one group, take the time to jot down the differences, since they are three distinct classifications. This may provide much more clarity.