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| Author : | Topic: refurbing period bayonet | Bottom |
| GrumpyDave moderator Posts : 1768 Yes, if I'm registered for the event; expect buckets of rain. ![]() |
The first thing you have to know is; the moment you begin altering an original, it will immediatly go down in value. So, if you're willing...Make sure it will actually fit on your musket. Most will not. Modern repro's are not of the same demisnions as the originals. Get a drill and a wire wheel to go with it. Find some metal polish. Work using the two together until the bayonet is bright as it's going to get. Remember during this process the metal is 140+ years old and was not made in the same way, nor does it have the same properties as modern metal and, it may never get the appearance of a brand new bayonet. When you get all of the rust and stains you can, polish with metal polish and a cloth, using much elbow grease to remove any tooling marks you may have left behind. Now, look at your work and think about all of the history that you have left on the workshop floor. It's all about what you're willing to live with. I have 4 original Springfield bayonets. All fit my musket from the get go. Off the shelf and with a litter "Never dull" they were ready to go. Lodgewood Manufacturing is who might be able to help you. I'm at work and don't have their website addy. Sorry. | |||
| GrumpyDave Towsen 6 gum blankets? May not be enough. |
| TomTownsend Posts : 32 People who like this sort of thing will find this the sort of thing they like. ![]() |
Yep - I realize that I'm modifying an 'original'. I'm not as concerned with its value as a historical piece as with its value as a quality-made object. I'd like a bayonet that doesn't bend when it hits a rock in the ground, etc., like the ones our friends in India produce. | |||
| Tom Townsend Co. A., Sixth Ohio Volunteer Infantry |
| Bill moderator Posts : 1326 The original fence sitter ![]() |
Grumpy, Yeah; but you've been the Hobby since before the last Drummer Boy passed away. Those "ready to go" bayonets now cost a king's ransom and your first born offspring. ![]() I'm a firm believer in the WD-40 and sandpaper method of cleaning up rusted, dirty metal. Get yourself a can of WD-40, various grits of wet or dry sandpaper. #300, #400, & #600 grit should do and a dowel that fits into the socket of your bayonet. Cut up the sandpaper in 2" X 4" pieces. Starting with the #300 grit, soak a piece in WD-40 and start sanding. Use long strokes on the bayonet's blade and going around the socket. Use the #300 grit to remove all the dirt and rust, followed by the #400 & #600 grit to polish the bayonet. Wrap a piece of sandpaper around that dowel and sand the inside of the socket. This is important, if you don't want to scratch up your rifle's barrel. If you want to get kinky, you can finish up the bayonet with emory paper and gunmetal polish. This is not a quick or easy job. Expect to spend a couple of evenings on the project --Last edited by Bill on 2008-01-22 10:42:52 -- | ||||
| Bill Rodman King of Prussia, PA wrodman1@aol.com |
| TomTownsend Posts : 32 People who like this sort of thing will find this the sort of thing they like. ![]() |
That what winter's for! Thanks for the instructions - just what I was looking for! | ||||
| Tom Townsend Co. A., Sixth Ohio Volunteer Infantry |
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